At the Dartmouth Skiway, the Slopes are outside and the forest is inside

Donald Maurice Kreis

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Skiing is an odd reason to build great architecture. For one thing, the whole reason for the sport is being outdoors -- so, any building associated with skiing is arguably irrelevant, or, at least, ought to be invisible to the skier enjoying a day on the slopes. For another, skiing tends to take place at resorts -- locations like Killington, Stowe, or Waterville Valley -- and resort buildings tend to elevate style over substance, architecturally speaking. Great public architecture is usually for serious places like museums, universities and libraries.

And yet every skier knows that a bad building can ruin an otherwise good day on the mountain. Hot, overcrowded, run-down lodges can make skiing feel like commuting into Boston in rush hour -- with the added dimension of kids spilling their hot chocolate on you, personal items lost in a sea of other people's stuff, disgusting, run-down bathrooms and a general sense of gloom that is so horribly incompatible with the pleasures of being outdoors on a mountain in wintertime.

These realities are well known to Banwell Architects of Lebanon, the Upper Valley's most venerable architecture firm -- and one that has made something of a specialty out of designing ski lodges. Banwell buildings are well known to skiers at places like Suicide Six, Mount Sunapee, Haystack, and Loon Mountain. Now, Banwell's work at the Dartmouth Skiway in Lyme is also well known to the jurors who recognize quality design by making awards on behalf of the New Hampshire chapter of the American Institute of Architects (AIA).

Bestowing one of nine "Excellence in Architectural Design" awards for 2002 on the skiway lodge, the AIA jury praised the project as a "very humble, straightforward design" that "didn't try to be too clever." The jurors described the year-old base lodge as "well sited," "not overly romantic for what it is," and "very functional."

In the context of a citation for architectural excellence, these comments have an odd ring to them ñ as if the jurors intended a kind of praise by faint damnation. But the building's chief architect, C. Stuart White of the Banwell firm, also prefers to catalogue the building's virtues in understated terms.

"Nothing about this project is trendy," White cheerfully concedes. Rather, he is proud of replacing the "ski lodge from hell" with one that makes a day at the Skiway a more pleasant and hassle-free experience than it used to be.

Consultants confirmed that the new building should go up on the site of the 1950s structure it would replace, at the foot of the Skiway's slopes on both sides of the road to Lyme, but as White sat down at his drafting table he resolved to work with the location rather than against it. At the old lodge, one bought lift tickets at a booth left chillingly exposed to the prevailing north wind. At the new lodge, the outdoor ticket area is sheltered within a sort of dooryard created by the lodge's two wings, which form a wide Vwith a southwestward orientation that both screens the wind and offers stunning views of the sunny slopes across the street.

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Stylistically, the lodge is an amorphous creation. White sought to evoke the storied traditions of the school's outdoor adventurers, so he placed the main entrance beneath a curved portico that deliberately imitates a similar feature at the home of the Dartmouth Outing Club in Hanover. Although the overall plan and massing of the building have a contemporary feel to them, White clothed the lodge in clapboard of Dartmouth green and added windows and other details that are calculated to evoke mercantile buildings of 100 years ago. In this sense, the flavor of the building is that of the old-time railway stations at which passengers would alight from the ski trains that first made New England slopes accessible nearly a century ago.

Not unlike the designer of an efficient railway terminal, White prides himself on having organized the lodge in a manner that minimizes the hassle of transitioning between modes of locomotion. Upon entering, one finds the basic necessities - ski rentals and bathrooms - immediately and conveniently to the left and right. In the middle is an ample lobby and an octagonal atrium leading upstairs, both with ample room to accommodate the awkward clompety-clomp of people walking in ski boots. The ski school desk is just inside the front door, and lift ticket sales are just outside, so it's easy to take care of these things on either the way in or the way out. This highly logical program seems like a no-brainer, but any skier can readily rattle off a list of mountains with lodges that present jumble rather than order, with a seeming random array of facilities liked by awkward and too-narrow passageways.

To prevent such a result here, White had to carry on a noble struggle that is familiar to any architect who ever designed a public building. Three separate committees of the college collectively comprised White's client on the project; he had to create a design that would satisfy the disparate priorities of all three groups while staying within a strict budget. The Skiway lodge cost less than $3 million, which is modest by the lavish standard Dartmouth typically uses for academic buildings in Hanover. In such circumstances, answering to three committees can make it easy to design a camel rather than a horse.

Dartmouth added yet another level of complexity, albeit a crucial one for responsible design. To guarantee that the building would be energy efficient, they employed local consultant Marc Rosenbaum, who is to energy efficiency what Willy Sutton was to bank robbery. (Rosenbaum worked on Vermont Law School's three-year-old Oakes Hall, which uses one eighth the thermal energy of a typical academic building in the region, according to the University of Minnesota Sustainable Design Guide.) But if energy efficiency is allowed to run riot, grace and user-friendliness can tend to go out the triple-glazed argon-filled window. "Wait a minute," White found himself insisting from time to time. "There are other things than getting the last BTU out of this sucker."

According to White, making this or any building serve the needs of its users and owners is what makes a project like this qualify as architecture, as opposed to mere construction. But, he adds, to take the next step and create something that can be characterized as an architectural success, the design "must also have that transcendent quality that goes beyond function and makes humans happy, excited, inspired to be in that space and to look forward to returning to it."

The Skiway Lodge has this quality. Oddly, the award jurors missed it - or at least they didn't mention it.

To clomp up the stairs of the lodge, through the skylit octagonal atrium, and to arrive on the dining and lounging area that comprises the second floor is to experience happiness, excitement and inspiration, as a result of the forest of eastern white pine that greets the visitor upon arrival. For this White credits a key collaborator from outside his firm.

Timber framing is enjoying a renaissance throughout the Upper Valley, reports Ed Levin of Paradigm Builders in Hanover. But the timber framing Levin was able to design and construct for the Skiway lodge is an especially satisfying example of this ancient way of holding up a building. Timber framing embodies the virtue of simplicity, and gives instinctive pleasure to all who enjoy seeing natural materials used in a natural way. It just feels right to be able to see that big pieces of wood, which once held up a mighty pine tree, now support the roof overhead. To stand at one end of the second floor of the Skiway lodge is to see a veritable forest of pine, an effect that is accentuated by the aforementioned bent plan that breaks the symmetry and grid of the framing.

The individual trees are as pleasing as the forest. You don't need to know that the horizontal members are called girts, that girts are built of individual timbers called bents, that the central post connecting the peak of the rafters with the central bent is a king post, that two diagonal struts reaching upward from each King Post only appear to be decorative (since they perform the important function of relieving the compressive force on the post), and that the queen posts, not the king posts, actually reach the ground to support the central bent, leaving the His Highness suspended in space. But the richness of this vocabulary testifies to the history, tradition and splendor of timber framing.

Asked what makes this particular framing design beautiful and Levin quickly but somewhat apologetically utters the phrase "sacred geometry." His ambivalence grows out of his commitment to sound engineering principles of the sort that guarantee his buildings won't collapse; Levin does not want to sound too new age. But he is hardly alone in thinking that certain mathematical relationships ñ the so-called "golden section," roughly the relationship of a person's height to the horizontal reach of a person's arms, being the most famous example - are inherently right and beautiful when they occur in the built world. Jonathan Hale's recent and popular book, The Old Way of Seeing, describes these mathematical relationships at length and complains that most current architecture is ugly because it ignores these principles.

"You can't just go slapping golden rectangles everywhere, it just doesn't work," Levin explains. Here, designing a framing pattern with rectangles expressing the Golden Section and other such relationships was difficult because he essentially had to design a structure within dimensions specified for him by the architects at Banwell. The result is a distinctive angular shape formed by the juxtaposition of the rafters and diagonal struts, bisected by the king post. "I don't know what it is," Levin says. "It's a kind of strange figure . . . it leads the eye onward [and] there's a kind of tension in it, like you're trying to close a compass." For Levin, it almost connotes the mysticism of masonic imagery, itself designed to evoke ancient Egypt. The important thing, though, is that the intriguing pattern invites contemplation at a time when lesser ski lodges would simply facilitate snarfing a burger between runs.

Both Levin and White concede that their joint Skiway effort falls short of perfection. Only the building's second floor is timber-framed; the first floor is made of steel and, structurally, is no more distinctive than big stores on Route 10 in West Lebanon. Timber meets steel awkwardly here; to the regret of architect and timber-framer it was necessary to reinforce the outer walls with steel beams. This steel is hidden behind the drywall, but elsewhere - particularly outside, under and around the portico - one sees details that reflect cost-cutting. As a result, the cement, steel and stone of the portico detract jarringly from the satisfying clapboard and timber of the lodge's upper story. The food service area itself looks as if a glorified hot dog stand had been plunked in the middle of the pine forest. And a big, beautiful granite fireplace in the dining area is unusable because it fills the room with smoke, although White hopes to find a fix.

"I am proud of the Skiway and not inclined to apologize for it on stylistic grounds," says White, whose 1974 home in Norwich, an unmistakably contemporary building in the tradition of White's hero Louis Kahn of Phillips Exeter Library fame, has won an AIA award as one of the best Vermont buildings of the last half of the 20th Century. "To date at least [the Skiway Lodge] has been enthusiastically received . . . but I have no illusions either about its importance relative to being on 'the cutting edge' of architecture . . . [I'm] not sure it's worth so much ink."

This endearing humility sets White apart from the famous, non-local architects that Dartmouth typically hires to design campus buildings. The resulting architecture is very much worth the ink used to describe why it succeeds. Let the museums and the libraries define the cutting edge. At the Skiway, the winter sports enthusiasts will be content to enjoy the forest outside as well as the forest inside.

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